Traditional Portuguese Wine Stomping
Once we heard one could stomp grapes and claim you made your own wine, we immediately knew that we had to join the wine stomping experience at Quinta da Pacheca!
Logistics
In/Out of Douro
In order to get to the Douro Valley, either you can drive from Porto or take a train into one of the many small towns (more like villages) along the river. Because we had an activity time, we opted to drive! Portugal has fantastic deals on rental cars so just make sure you buy with a credit card that also include rental car insurance like the Chase Sapphire Reserve!
Lodging
There are plenty of hotels, B&Bs, or Airbnb’s to choose from in the Valley. For our group of 3, it made it slightly awkward to find a cheap hotel so we went for an AirBnB in the town of Regua, across the river from Pacheca.
That being said, if one is travelling especially for this experience and wants to do it, I would HIGHLY recommend the Quinta da Pacheca hotel. They have rooms that overlook the vineyard, wine barrel, and everything you could ever need! We spoke with someone who was staying there and they were absolutely loving their choice! Plus, their restaurant has great reviews!
Harvest Experience
Although I am sure other Quintas offer this experience, we definitely prefer Quinta da Pacheca and cannot recommend them enough! The estate is absolutely gorgeous, wine and food is delicious, and the staff are incredibly friendly! To book this Harvest Experience, you have to keep an eye on their website as they don’t know when the harvest will be until late summer. We booked in mid-June and it was relatively simple process! Others booked the night before since they were staying with the hotel!
Fixed Costs:
- Car: £25 via Goldcar + €30 for gas
- Airbnb: £51
- Harvest Experience: €80
- Get to say we created our own 2019 wine: Priceless
The Beginning
Because we stayed in Porto city centre yesterday, I made the wise decision to rent the car the day we actually needed it! However, this meant I woke up with the drunks and partiers still on the street! From our AirBnB, it was a quick walk to the airport metro and I was on the first train out at 6:10am. Mary Frances better know she is loved!
Renting the car
Unlike our horrific Lisbon rental car experience, this one was rather smooth. The agency was open at 7am and I was picked up at 7:10 from the arrivals. By the way, I didn’t realise how great it was to have a “normal” rental car company! I was the first in line and picked up our tiny blue Fiat! Zoom zoom zoom!
Onto Douro
From Porto city center, Douro Valley is approximately 1-1.5 hours away. As the Portuegse say, it is very far for them but very close for Americans! For the most part, the drive is really simple as it is mostly on the motorway.
Travel Tip: Rent/Buy the electronic toll pass called Verde. It will save you time and cash!
On our drive, we were really worried as it was very foggy and cold. However, as we emerged from a very long tunnel, the sunshine hit us! We were very happy!!
Arrival & Check-in
Once we arrived at the gorgeous Quinta da Pacheca estate, we walked to the wine shop and checked into the experience. We received awesome matching shirts that clearly state we are apart of the 2019 Harvest, portegese Hat and Scarf, and our own scissors and bucket!
Our group was larger than I expected with a large group of Russians combined with 5-6 couples, plus Kelly. Joking! In total, it was close to 25 people. Although we forgot his name, our guide was awesome and he gave us the itinerary.
First, we would have a short introduction into grape cutting as we would head straight to the fields after breakfast. After our work in the field, we would then stomp our grapes. Following our work, we would have a slow and homemade lunch. To conclude, we would have a wine tasting. While a full day, he said we needed to enjoy ourselves!
Grape Introduction
Using our new scissors and bucket, our guide demonstrated the appropriate way to cut grapes. While it is definitely not complicated, Pacheca does have standards so he needed to outline them! First, we need to ensure that we do not cut too much of the vine in the grape. We can cut and destroy the leaves as they will cut them at the end of the season anyways! Next, we need to look for the things to avoid. Examples included really raisin grapes (to the point of pink) and green grapes. They prefer raisins and full red grapes, obviously!
Harvest Breakfast
For our traditional harvest breakfast, we had sardines, gizzards (chicken guts aka dark meat), and onion soup. While I did try each of those options, I definitely preferred onion soup and bread! The gizzards were interesting but ultimately don’t like dark meat while sardines were too fishy!
While I am glad I had the opportunity to try these traditional meals, I am very happy we ate beforehand! Not because it wasn’t good, it was just different... Don’t worry, Kelly definitely loved every bite!
Harvest in the Fields
For our field work, we walked about 10 minutes through their vineyards. With our great weather, the sun was shining and we were ready to get to work! Quickly, we realised that we were the only ones who were trying -other than the people getting paid to do it!
With our hard work, we filled many buckets! Traditionally, the ladies cut the grapes while the men deal with the bucket and large buckets. Similar to the actual workers, we cleared the entire vine before moving onto the next “zone”. As we moved closer to other folks, we found their mistakes and thankfully saved a few grapes!
One cannot be a part of a harvest in the fields without tasting some of the product! I tried both the regular grape and a “raisin.” With the full grape, our guide said to avoid the seed until the very end to allow our taste buds to soak in the sweet juice. Then he said to bite into the seed to introduce the “bad” flavour as it dries up your mouth. He explained this is why Pacheca still stomps on the grapes in the traditional method as it avoids breaking the seed and introducing the bad flavour to the wine. How neat!
Despite our hard labour in the fields, our time was up. We quickly realised when as the real workers literally blitzed through our zone searching for any hidden or lefted behind grapes. They tore through the row like a hurricane!
Stomping!
For the grand finale of the wine process, outside the maturation, we were stomping!!! Obviously, the 6 month hype train had prepared us well!
Because wine or grape can stain your clothes, we were provided shorts and a towel. Immediately, we were greeted by a traditional band with an old man already dancing in the tub! It was hysterical, yet so amazing!!
Because I was the first one into the tub, I handed my phone to the guide as he would take all our pictures. They’ve had people lose phones and other accessories so they make you take it off beforehand. However, I saw someone with their phone in the tub and I was very jealous...
Pro Tip: take the phone to ensure you get the pictures and videos you want! Just don’t drop it!
Soap or Water?
One of the biggest questions we had and our friends asked was how do you wash your feet ahead of entering the tub. Well, the answer is you do NOT wash your feet and legs. I stepped into a bucket of water before entering to rid of the easily removable dirt and stuff. Then, I stepped into the tub!
What does it feel like?
Strange, yet exactly what it sounds like - squishing grapes! There are tons of grapes in this tub and each step broke the grape and filled with more juice. The sensation is exactly as described, like your stepped on a grape with your bare feet except on a scale that went all the way to your knees!
Before we got into the tub, we thought this was going to be a gruelling workout. However, I would say it is very similar to running workout in a pool or perhaps an elliptical. I wasn’t getting tired, I was just running out of room in the tub!
Stomping Experience
Once we mentally got over the strange grape squishing feeling, we really enjoyed ourselves!! We danced with our group, even did a Congo line!! Alongside new friends, we danced and clapped to the traditional Portuguese songs!
Did I taste our stomping product?
Yes!! Of course I did! Kelly and Mary Frances were going to skip this, but peer pressure works really well. The juice is very sweet and unsurprisingly tastes like grape juice!
Our guide took a few pictures and videos, but clearly not enough of this experience. During our stomping, we had a few random tours come by and gawk at us while we stomped. That is when our stomping experience ended as our old man pointed at us to exit the tub.
Our legs were coated in grape juice. While the layer of grape juice felt slimy, once we washed it off with water, our legs felt silky smooth! Our guide explained that the same bacteria that helps create the wine also provides a spa experience for your legs. Apparently, there are wine baths in Porto in certain spas! Go for it if it suits your fancy!
Feast for the Workers
Because we worked in the fields and tub, we deserved a worker’s feast! Similar to breakfast, we had a traditional lunch. We had carrot or cabbage soup, tasty pork and rice stew, and a fresh salad. Each time was very good! The pork sausage and rice stew reminded me of a family recipe called chicken perlou so I wonder if it originated in Portugal! Sadly, one of the highlights was the amazing fresh bread drizzled with their olive oil. I went back for thirds on those bad boys....
For the grand finale, we had fresh fruit of watermelon, kiwi, and melon. More exciting, we had a traditional lemon flavoured creme brûlée. Everything was very tasty and I enjoyed it!!
Pacheca Wine tasting
Unlike our first experience in March, we had different and better wines! It pays to be paying handsomely for this experience!
- Rose - They introduced us with a very light and refreshing Rose wine. The fruity light tones paired well with the hot day. We purchased this bottle!
- 2015 Red Reserve - because we are special, we had an off menu wine (obviously still available to purchase!). This wine was very dry and bold, yet great for chocolate and red meat. We learned while most Douro reds are dry, this one was the “most dry” and has won a few awards! At €42 a bottle, be prepared to splurge! For a second, I thought Kelly was going to buy this bottle. She accidentally poured herself another round and the guide saw her. To make fun of her, he poured the rest of the bottle in the glass!
- 2016 Vintage Ruby Port - Similar to our first tasting, we were well prepared to enjoy the Ruby Port. However, we were upgraded to a much better blend and it was exceptional! The port was extremely good and went down smoothly. Unexpectedly, we purchased this bottle! We were told to enjoy this port for immediate use - likely within the week. For the best taste, our guide said to consume within 1 hour!
- 40 year old Tawny Port - Since we learned Tawny equals maple syrup, we were not looking forward to the Tawny tasting. However, with this €106 bottle of 40 year old port, I can be convinced to drink it! While it tasted like maple syrup, it was still MUCH better than any other tawny. When the more experienced Port drinkers found out it was the 40yo, their jaws dropped! When the guide found out that Kelly’s glass spilled “because of the wine”, I thought we were about to get kicked out!
Round Two
After the tasting, our group said our goodbyes and everyone departed. Apparently a lot of people stayed in Porto and made a day trip out if it. I am glad we did not have to drive an hour back to Porto!
Instead, we went to the wine shop for tasting round two. Kelly wanted to try a few more before she purchased an engagement gift. Because I was driving, I only drank water!
- 2014 LBV Ruby Port - we definitely could tell the difference between the 2016 vintage and this blend. While still very good, the blend had a slightly more sweet taste and was not as smooth.
- 2017 Vintage - there was not much to say as it was very similar to the 2016 vintage that we tried. Accordingly, Kelly preferred the 2016 vintage.
In the end, we purchased the following:
- Rose
- 2016 Vintage Ruby Port
- Olive oil - cause why not?!
The View
To help sober up, we decided to hangout in the estate for a little longer. Kelly and Mary Frances read, while I chugged water and typed out this blog! How exciting!
The Unchartered Summary:
- Hands down, if a wine lover or enthusiast, this experience HAS to be on your bucket list. Not only did we pick our grapes, we stomped them to begin the maturation process! We convinced a Boston couple in the wine shop to spontaneously join the 6pm stomping and dinner.
- While we debated staying on the property, just do it. Pacheca is gorgeous, the food is delicious, and wine is great!
- Although we prepared for hard manual labour similar to a workout, this experience is designed to pamper to all ages. While I might have been the youngest, the older folks got along just fine!
For Mary Frances and I, this harvest Experience has been on our bucket list for a whopping 6 months as we didn’t know it existed! It is one of a kind and must do while in the Douro Valley!
The Rest of our Day
After sadly leaving the Quinta da Pacheca, we drove 10 minutes to our AirBnB in sleepy Regua. We met our host in front of the apartment and went up to our 6th floor flat. While a little dated, it had great views and guaranteed no street noise! The bed was as hard as a rock, but it is only £50 compared to the €350 wine barrel room at the Pacheca..
Tapas, anyone?
We received two recommendations for our sleepy village - XXX and YYY. Around 645, we made our descent into the village. The first tapas place appeared closed and the owner gave us a nap sign and said something about the number 4. Thoroughly confused, we went to the second recommendation for drinks and happy hour.
Finally, after a long wait, we finally were able to try a Port Tonic! Used with white port, the drink is surprisingly sugary and I didn’t enjoy it as much as I thought I would. For our appetizer, we shared padron peppers - including a few spicy ones! Lastly, for our main, I went light and easy with the pumpkin raviloi and MF had the baked cod. It was a wonderful ending to our great day!
