Trip Review: 24 Hours in Paris
Because we had been to Paris many times, we decided to try another way via an overnight Paris trip in early December 2019, just 24 hours, when our friends Kathryn and Stu came across the pond!
Logistics
Going to Paris for 24 hours is really easy so our logistics was settled really easily!
Transportation
Thanks to our central London flat, we have easy access to the Eurostar out of London St Pancras. Regardless of the trip, we likely won’t fly into Paris again because we would spend probably another $80 in train tickets to/from the airports. We really love arriving in the middle of the city with easy access to metros and the Tube!
Because our friends booked quite late, we purchased our seats at the last minute so we weren’t able to save on the slightly less expensive tickets when the seats opened 90 days before departure. However, this did mean that the Standard Premier (i.e. Economy Plus) tickets were in our price range so I opted for those tickets!
Pro Tip: Similar to airlines, if you book far in advance, you can sometimes get a slightly better deal
While we debated using the famous Eurosnap service, we just purchased our tickets for Saturday morning at 8:30am, after a lie-in, and returning on Sunday evening. Having known trains was worth it in the end!
Budget Backpacker Tip: If you have all the time in the world, combined with little money, Eurostar releases heavily discounted tickets, but you can only select between AM or PM on the day of your travel. Two days before your trip, Eurostar will email you your train and seat!
Lodging
Because we were only staying one night and wanted a place to hold our luggage on the Sunday, we opted for a nice hotel near our friends. In Paris, there is no science, only a budget! Using hotels.com, I found a decent hotel at Happy Neuve in the 3rd Arr - close to our friends and the bakeries!
Overall, the room was small (but that is typical in Paris) but the bed was very comfy! More importantly, the heater was working really nicely! The hotel did offer breakfast, I obviously wanted fresh pastries!
Fixed Costs:
- Eurostar: $350
- Happy Neuve hotel: $168
Onto Paris
Whilst we had some anxiety with the French rail strikes all of December 2019, our morning train was one of the only ones that did not get cancelled! We chose wisely!
From our flat, we took the Hammersmith line to St Pancras. MF was really hoping our favorite cafe would be open, but they open at 8am on Saturdays! We initially thought we would have to get there at least 60 minutes before departure as we have had many last minute scares at St Pancras. Once we arrived, we breezed through security and customs and didn’t have to wait in any sort of line! Maybe we should travel on strike weekends more often!
Traveling in Style
After waiting for the Eurostar doors to open, we munched on our Pret sandwiches and people watched. Once the doors opened, we leisurely walked to our Standard Premier coach! We thoroughly enjoyed the extra legroom and much more spacious coach!
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MF is enjoying her Premier seat! -
This was our seat - very large and comfy!
Then, I forgot that we get a nice little breakfast and free refills on coffee! Whilst nothing spectular, it provided free breakfast and enough food to keep us happy! Definitely a good perk to have if the price between normal standard and standard premier is within your budget range.
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Your free meal -
MF is intrigued
On Strike
In December 2019, essentially the entire Paris metro and most regional or national rail was on strike. Therefore, when our train arrived promptly, we had zero way of getting to our hotel as the metro was closed for the weekend. While there are obviously other options such as walking, scooter, or Uber. for a very short trip, it is incredibly disruptive on our trip!!
To protest the protesters, I used their feared enemy - Uber! As one can expect when there isn’t a metro, the streets were much more crowded so traffic was terrible. However, we were riding in style so MF enjoyed the luxury!
Freddy’s - One of the Best
Hidden in the very popular area of St Germain, Freddy’s is a fantastic tapas bar serving Spanish and French cuisine. I don’t believe you can make reservations so it is on a first come, first served basis.
Because this is Stu and Kathryn’s favorite restaurant in Paris, we let them have a first crack at the menu. Whilst we all have been here last January, we were very indecisive and wanted to taste everything! Because the menu is entirely small plate tapas and based on sharing between people, we just wanted tasty food!
For our grand menu, we ordered the following:
- Taggeille leeks
- Razor clams
- Steak
Sweet Potato Beignets
Grilled Pumpkin
Grilled Pork Shoulder
Whilst every bite was very tasty, I think our favorite was actually and surprising the grilled pumpkin! We normally don’t like pumpkin anything but it was really fresh and melted in your mouth! Obviously, we all enjoyed the steak as it was perfectly cooked! Lastly, rounding out of top three was probably the taggellie leeks. Because we have been on a health kick recently, MF was inspired to try these at home!
Happy Hour near Notre Dame
On our walk back to the apartment, we decided to grab drinks at an old diner near Notre Dame on the island. Whilst MF and I enjoyed classic cocktails, Stu ordered absinthe in its traditional form! The waiter burned sugar whilst water dripped into the absinthe. It is a very cool presentation, but the absinthe is probably not worth the price!
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Cool presentation -
Lovely views -
Lovely views -
Pit stop - Eclair
Second Happy Hour - Local Version
Because the Stone’s own a flat in the 3rd Arr., we went back to their awesome flat for a local cheese and wine happy hour! According to them, they have one of the best cheese shops in Paris in their neighborhood. After tasting some of the goat cheese, I have to agree!
Pro Tip: After having this awesome spread at their flat, why not always go local in Paris?? Have your own happy hour and buy local cheese and wine!
Le Poulbot
Despite the strike, we made reservations at our favorite Parisian restaurant - Le Poulbot. Located in the Montemarte area, not only do they have amazing duck and steak and frites, the hospitality is great and the area views are great as well! However, from the 3rd Arr, via Uber, it is a very, very long Uber for 8pm, especially when you have sleep deprived Americans!
Thankfully, we booked 3-4 different reservations as we seemed to keep missing our original bookings but they had a tiny space in the corner for us. The group sommelier, Stu, picked a fine Bordeaux wine and we began celebrating our successful arrival!
For our appetisers, we ordered fantastic burrata and escargot salad. Everything was wonderful and really fresh - or your typical experience at Le Poulbot!
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Burrata -
Escargot Salad
The main was the standard steak and frites, which was terrific! Although it was slightly overcooked, we all still enjoyed it!
Finally, for the dessert, we obviously had two orders - one lava cake and one panna cotta. I immensely enjoyed my lava cake, although it was also over baked…
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Chocolate lava cake -
Panna Cotta
The Walk
We debated walking home as it would be mostly a downhill walk, but we eventually gave up around Gare du Nord and we called an Uber. Whoops!
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Sacre Coeur -
Sacre Coeur -
Views -
Sacre Coeur
Last 10 Hours
For our last 10 hours in Paris, we explored the fresh markets and enjoyed one final meal - if you can believe it!
Fresh Food
In Paris, one can get absolutely amazing fresh fruit, veggies, meat, baked goods, and other delights at the street markets, and the bakeries.
Bakery
Around the corner from our hotel, we found a great bakery. Obviously, I bought the entire store… just joking… maybe… haha! It is called Miss Manon and it produced a fine pain au chocolate. We munched on the goods as we walked to the main event - the Sunday Bastille market!
Bastille Market
Every Sunday, a huge portion of the Bastille area turns into a massive food market. Whilst there are many, many similar food vendors, if you’re a true local, then you have your people. If only I was a local, I would definitely have my butcher, my fruit guy, my veggie guy, my crepe guy, and I think you would get the point!
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Bastille Market -
Bastille Market -
Bastille Market
Whilst MF and I were not looking for dinner tonight, we enjoyed watching Stu and Kathryn decide and select their fresh dinner. Because it was fresh and from local people, everything was super cheap compared to a supermarket! I was very jealous - until I remember we have similar markets in London!
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Fresh fruits -
Fresh eggs and things
Chez Janou
When Stu and Kathryn last visited in January, we waited for over an hour to get into Chez Janou - a very popular tourist and local watering hole in the 3rd Arr. Being clever this go around, we had reservations for Sunday lunch! While we initially thought we were the first people in the place, we were the second group at 12:15pm! Thankfully, the restaurant became busier as it turns out only Americans eat early…
Because we were very excited, we didn’t really read the menu very well as it is in French… Whoops… I’ll admit here first, I ordered the wrong thing… I had the traditional beef stew that was very, very large, but also not that great…
Whilst MF did love their scallop risotto, something was just missing. i don’t know, I think we struck out this time!
Notre Dame or Bust
Because we were very close to the Notre Dame, we wanted to see it for ourselves and check out the Christmas markets!
Finest Fromage in Paris
Before we went to Notre Dame, we stopped at the finest fromage in Paris, Laurent Dubois. We had goat cheese from here last night that was superb and their selection is very appealing - and smelly! I would highly recommend!
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Lauren Dubois -
Great selection! -
Lots of smelly cheese
Devastating Fire
As everyone should know, there was a devastating fire to Notre Dame earlier in the spring. Now, it is permanently closed whilst it undergoes a massive restoration to its former glory. Thankfully, we have visited the beautiful church many times.
Guarding the Notre Dame is a great photo and storyboard of the project. It shows the extent of the damage on the day of the fire and you can easily compare it to the current progress. It is a miracle it is still here!
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Views from the review -
Notre Dame -
Notre Dame
Christmas Market Fail
Because of the storyboard wall, we weren’t able to easily find the Christmas markets and we were running out of time before our train. Thus, we had to hastily say our goodbyes whilst Stu and Kathryn continued to the markets. Good thing we visited last year for the Parisan markets!
Stressful Uber
Here is where the metro strike was incredibly annoying - it would have been a 15 minute metro ride compared to a 30 minute Uber in standstill traffic….
Whilst I sweated bullets and MF calmed me down, it was a very stressful Uber ride. Thankfully, we had a skilled driver who drove mostly in the unused bus lane and we arrived with 30 minutes before our departure time.
However, perhaps thanks to the strike, there was no one here! We breezed through customs and security and even had time to buy water and use the toilet! I think I have been scarred on our Easter Eurostar trip in 2018 where we were really cutting it close!
Easy Eurostar
One of the many reasons why I prefer the Eurostar is the easy, convenient end point at St Pancras. We cruised into London and were home without any issues!
The UnChartered Summary
- Paris is annoying if the metro is not working… In a major city, while incredibly easy to walk around visiting the sites, it is not ideal when we are here for a very limited time!
- Again, similar to our past Paris trips, Le Polbot is a great choice if near Montemarte. If the city is striking though, perhaps chose another restaurant!
- The fresh markets near the Bastille reminded me that if you have a kitchen in an AirBnB, the fresh produce, meat, and anything you could want is fantastic and surprisingly dirt cheap! When the Stones were buying their Sunday dinner, they purchased everything for a great price. I would recommend checking out the markets if they are nearby as they will have treasure troves.