Son of a Boche
Namche Bazaar, Nepal
Namche Bazaar, Nepal
Last night was just not my night. Let's just say the veggie momo hit me hard and quick. And the bathrooms were actually ideal. By ideals my standards are it was a squatter. I've learned that toilets up here are just disgusting and you're better off just squatting. That may be too much information, but it's important mountain information and part of the experience!
In addition, we had more dogs barking at all hours of the night. It must be the altitude. Or something. But it has to stop since I am now dreaming about just kicking them off the mountain just so I can get some shut eye. This was not confirmed but when we were getting packed, I heard a loud crash and slip followed by the words "Son of a.." very loudly. Now, I would like to believe this guy slipped in those disgusting bathrooms cause it is 100% possible. Unconfirmed reports said he just tipped over a water bucket, but my version is way better.
Up here in the mountains, which I define as past Namche since they have to carry everything, there are no "usual breakfast" aka the breakfast set which means I get a bunch of American breakfast food. I now just got the French toast. It wasnt very filling.
For today's hike, it was suppose to be relatively flat in the morning followed by a 300m steep ascent after lunch. This trek is so interesting. In the morning, we almost went painful slow. Slower than a yak! But we have to if we want to avoid altitude sickness, especially skipping the rest day! This trek tests the mental fortitude more than I anticipated especially since my legs aren't that sore and it isn't that hard. It messes with your mind because the altitude makes it hard and then it feels like it'll never end sometimes.
I reached into my memory for an excellent motivation and prayer: Philippians 5:13 - I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me. Today felt like the day we needed it, especially when we saw the afternoon hike...
For lunch, it was a tiny village that probably had 2 teahouses and it was the center for both people going up and people heading down. It was standing room only for lunch and we luckily found a seat right next to the kitchen so we saw them work their magic. Sadly, due to my issues last night, I went safe and got brunch- another round of French toast and fries.
While we waited, we got to observe pure chaos as 60+ people crammed into the tiny teahouse and then the small kitchen tried to serve all of us. We don't recognize anyone since we skipped a day and all of our friends were smart and did the rest day. Whoops. Basically in this "new group," we have 2 very large groups of 35 and then a bunch of solo people. We want to pride ourselves in being last haha!
Finally, the battle of Tukla began - 300m up in the sun. For people with a rest day, probably not an issue. For a group of overconfident young Americans, it spelt trouble. It was an uphill battle. The battle plan was hike for 10, rest for 5. It was rough. There were headaches, panting, heart pounding through my chest and head, and pure exhaustion. Finally, we saw a line of prayer flags that was similar to the best finish line I've ever seen.
But wait, one familiar foe emerged from the dust and sweat. It was the stupid horse lady riding her gallant donkey up this stupid hill. We pushed and raced and crossed that prayer flag finish line! It was glorious! We had a mini celebration at the top and rested and took some good pictures. Also at the top was a memorial to all those who had fallen while attempting everest. It was really sad. So many have tried and while many have succeeded, there still are lots who didn't make it.
The remaining hike to Loboche was very flat as we walked on the glacier valley. It was very easy compared to earlier! It is hard to believe that was all a glacier at some point. I could tell we were very high up -4900m- and it was getting to me. Mainly just a headache, but also the oxygen levels were lower because there was nothing but rocks. We finally reached the teahouse and it was slammed. One of the big groups were there and the teahouse wasn't that big to begin with.
We sat down at the only available spot and we instantly met some friends. Probably because we looked exhausted and she is an ER doctor. While it is very interesting to learn more about what could go wrong at this altitude, it also left me in a panic. Up to this point we have been fine, but today was the hardest day of the trek and I wonder if it is because we skipped that rest day. I worried that if anything were to happen, I would be at fault, but she also reassured us that as long as we go slow, then we shouldn't have any issues.
She said the biggest cause of high altitude sickness was people just went to fast expecting their bodies to maintain their at sea level fitness. I then asked her why this altitude of area feels so different than South America. Due to where SA and Everest trek in location to the equator, the oxygen levels vary at the same altitude and we react and feel it differently. So while there are higher places on earth than EBC, they could have more oxygen available. I don't know if that is 100% correct but boy do I feel a difference. In Bolivia and Peru last year, I slept and moved at 4900m and had no issues whatsoever.
Never Before Seen Video!
The rest of the night was mainly spent in the common room which Ed renamed a cesspool due to yak poop heating, 60+ people, and lots of germs. Now for dinner, I just got more garlic soup and a vegetable curry. Ed ate his really quickly then he bailed pretty early (due to the cesspool) but jenny and I stayed and just read or wrote.
And talked and/or overheard the conversations the doctor was having with people. As I mentioned, many people are sick so she is very popular. Not to mention she was really nice and had lived on the EBC trek for 5 weeks so she knew a lot. One cool thing was this group of 60 year olds who were staying in actual BC because they designed a drone that could deliver medicine or oxygen to the camps on Mt Everest. That is pretty neat! It was an interesting dinner!
